There are thirty-three correctional institutions in the state of California, and I've been to eighteen of them (three women's, and fifteen men's). And the one place that I've been to the most is San Quentin.

Nestled on the banks of the bay, across from the Richmond - San Rafael Bridge, its quaint castle motif looks more like something you'd find on a studio backlot, rather than the face of a facility that houses 5,247 inmates (675 of them on death row). The fact that it resembles something out of Hollywood is no surprise, given that scenes from TAKE THE MONEY AND RUN and CHANGELING were filmed there.
Of all the institutions throughout the state, San Quentin has the best view. The snack bar is a circular building, with window seating, that overlooks the vast bay against the silhouette backdrop of the Richmond - San Rafael Bridge. It's gorgeous, even when it’s raining.

Despite the history of violence within the prison walls, the people who work at San Quentin are some of the nicest I've ever met. Like this guy:

Every time I've been there, he's always greeted me with a warm smile.
And these guys:

My first time crossing the yard during a prison tour, the same yard where Metallica filmed a music video (not that I'm a Metallica fan by any means - Ministry, my friends, Ministry), was comforted in that these fine gentlemen, and hundreds more, watched our every move.
I've crossed yards at several prisons, and for the record, the biggest and meanest looking inmates can be found at San Quentin. I was later comforted to learn that my five co-workers walked safely behind me throughout our two hour tour. Being a human shield is something I'll need to add to my resume.
The dining hall in San Quentin is a historical work of art. The six dividing walls, each twenty by a hundred feet, were painted by inmate artist, Alfredo Santos, in the mid 1950s.

The sepia toned murals depict a populist view of the history of California.

For paint Alfredo used black shoe polish mixed with coffee. It took Michelangelo four years to paint the 12,000 square foot ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. Alfredo painted the same amount of space in half that time, and was only allowed to work at night.

The correctional officer who gave us a tour of the dining hall demonstrated what he would do in case of a riot, because apparently they happen quite frequently. He and four other correctional officers oversee one section of the dining hall. Their section feeds four hundred inmates twice a day. There are only two exits in the dining hall. Although his gas grenade, pepper spray gun and baton were readily accessible on his person, I’m not sure I’d feel as jovial being outnumbered four hundred to five. Despite being totally outnumbered on a daily basis, he had a cherry disposition, even after twenty years on the job.
We were shown the Carson and Doner cell blocks, but not death row.
The tour ended with the execution chamber. The new execution chamber is off limits, but with executions gearing up again, that will no longer be the case.
The old chamber looked just that, old, but not from heavy use. The gas chamber, surprisingly built for two, looks practically band new, despite being constructed seventy-five years ago.
The chamber itself is multifunctional, as the chairs and flooring can be replaced with a dental chair with straps for lethal injection.
It was the shape of the chamber which gave the old appearance. It looked more like a gun turret from an ironclad warship from the civil war than a chamber of death. I could have mistaken it for such had it not been for the pale, lime green color it was painted in. The lifeless, sterile color didn’t seem to fit the purpose of the structure, but then what color would you use, Colonial blue?

I couldn’t help but notice the witness chairs, placed side by side, in a semicircle. There was a raised platform to the left against the wall, where reporters would stand like a choir. The uniformity of the setup left a hollow feeling. The phones against the back wall were also noticeable. The last inmate who was scheduled to be executed made it to the entrance of the chamber just as the governor’s office called for a stay. That was in 2006. And since then it's remained quiet, only to be opened to inquisitive folks like me who were invited for a tour of the prison.

The Correctional Lieutenant who gave the tour was adamantly apposed to the death penalty, which surprised me. “It’s a big waste of money.” The original gas chamber was constructed for the sum of $2,500 by a company in Denver in the 1930s. The new execution wing cost upwards of a million dollars. I agree with his sentiment.
San Quentin is an interesting place. With the way this project is heading, I can see myself going back there again. And frankly, I’m fine with that.






















